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Lipstick

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    Reflection in a mirror of beautiful woman applying lip gloss on her lips. Reflection in a mirror of young beautiful woman applying lip gloss on her mouth. lipstick stock pictures, royalty-free photos & images

    Lipstick is a cosmetic product that applies color, texture, and protection to the lips. Many colors and types of lipstick exist. Some lipsticks are also lip balms, to add both color and hydration.

    Although the name originally applied to the baton (stick) of material with a tubular container usually around 10 mm in diameter and 50 mm in length, the term now generally relates to the material itself, regardless of method of application.

    History
    Early History: 
    Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago. They crushed gemstones and used them to decorate their faces; mainly on the lips and around the eyes. Egyptians like Cleopatra crushed bugs (carmine) to create a color of red on their lips. Women in the ancient Indus Valley Civilization may have used rectangular pieces of ochre with beveled ends as lipstick. Ancient Egyptians wore lipstick to show social status rather than gender. They extracted the red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine, and some bromine mannite, but this dye resulted in serious illness. Lipstick with shimmering effects was initially made using a pearlescent substance found in fish scales.

    Women in the Minoan civilization colored their lips with bright red cosmetics. Lip paint in ancient Greece was initially restricted to courtesans but expanded to the upper class between 700 and 300 BCE. Greek women colored their lips with cosmetics made from dyes containing Tyrian purple, crushed mulberries, and the toxic pigment vermilion.

    The Chinese made some of the first lipsticks that were made from beeswax over 1000 years ago to protect the delicate skin of the lips. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE), scented oils were added to them, which gave the mouth an enticing factor.

    In Australia, Aboriginal girls would paint their mouths red with ochre for puberty rituals.

    United Kingdom: Lip coloring started to gain some popularity in 16th-century England. During the time of Queen Elizabeth I bright red lips and a stark white face became fashionable. At that time, lipstick was made from a blend of beeswax and red stains from plants. Only upper-class women and male actors wore makeup.

    Throughout most of the 19th century, the obvious use of cosmetics was not considered acceptable in Britain for respectable women, and it was associated with marginalized groups such as actors and prostitutes. It was considered brazen and uncouth to wear makeup.

    In the 1850s, reports were being published warning women of the dangers of using lead and vermilion in cosmetics applied to the face. By the end of the 19th century, Guerlain, a French cosmetic company, began to manufacture lipstick. The first commercial lipstick had been invented in 1884, by performers in Paris, France. It was covered in silk paper and made from deer tallow, castor oil, and beeswax. Before this, lipstick had been created at home.

    Complete acceptance of the undisguised use of cosmetics in England appears to have arrived for the fashionable Londoner at least by 1921.

    United States: In the 19th century, lipstick was colored with carmine dye. Carmine dye was extracted from cochineal, scale insects native to Mexico and Central America which live on cactus plants. Cochineal insects produce carminic acid to deter predation by other insects. Carminic acid, which forms 17% to 24% of the weight of the dried insects, can be extracted from the insect's body and eggs. Mixed with aluminum or calcium salts it makes carmine dye (also known as cochineal).

    This lipstick did not come in a tube; it was applied with a brush. Carmine dye was expensive and the look of carmine-colored lipstick was considered unnatural and theatrical, so lipstick was frowned upon for everyday wear. Only actors and actresses could get away with wearing lipstick. In 1880, few stage actresses wore lipstick in public. The famous actress, Sarah Bernhardt, began wearing lipstick and rouge in public. Before the late 19th century, women only applied makeup at home. Bernhardt often applied carmine dye to her lips in public.

    In the early 1890s, carmine was mixed with an oil and wax base. The mixture gave a natural look and it was more acceptable among women. At that time, lipstick was not sold in screw-up metal tubes; it was sold in paper tubes, tinted papers, or in small pots. The Sears Roebuck catalog first offered rouge for lips and cheeks by the late 1890s.

    By 1912 fashionable American Women had come to consider lipstick acceptable, through an article in the New York Times advised on the need to apply it cautiously.

    By 1915, lipstick was sold in cylinder metal containers, which had been invented by Maurice Levy. Women had to slide a tiny lever at the side of the tube with the edge of their fingernails to move the lipstick up to the top of the case, although lipsticks in push-up metal containers had been available in Europe since 1911. In 1923, the first swivel-up tube was patented by James Bruce Mason Jr. in Nashville, Tennessee. As women started to wear lipstick for photographs, photography made lipstick acceptable among women. Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder began selling lipstick in their salons.

    During the Second World War, metal lipstick tubes were replaced by plastic and paper tubes. Lipstick was scarce during that time because some of the essential ingredients of lipstick, petroleum, and castor oil were unavailable. World War II allowed women to work in engineering and scientific research, and in the late 9140s, Hazel Bishop, an organic chemist in New York and New Jersey, created the first long-lasting lipstick, called No-smear lipstick. With the help of Raymond Specter, an advertiser, Bishop's lipstick business thrived.

    Another form of lip color, a wax-free, semi-permanent liquid formula, was invented in the 1990s by the Lip-Ink International company. Other companies have imitated the idea, putting out their versions of long-lasting "lip stain" or "liquid lip color".

    Lipstick Trends
    Throughout the early 20th century, lipstick came in a limited number of shades.

    Dark red lipstick was one of the most popular shades throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, especially in the 1920s. Flappers wore lipstick to symbolize their independence. Lipstick was worn around the lips to form a "Cupid's bow", inspired by actress Clara Bow. At that time, it was acceptable to apply lipstick in public and during lunch, but never at dinner.

    In the early 1930s, Elizabeth Arden began to introduce different lipstick colors. She inspired other companies to create a variety of lipstick shades. Teenage girls believed that lipstick was a symbol of womanhood, yet adults saw it as an act of rebellion. Many Americans, especially immigrants, did not accept teenage girls wearing lipstick. A study in 1937 survey revealed that over 50% of teenage girls fought with their parents over lipstick.

    In the mid-1940s, several teen books and magazines stressed that men prefer a natural look over a made-up look. Books and magazines also warned girls that wearing cosmetics could ruin their chances of popularity and a career. These articles implied that lipstick and rogue were for teen girls who acted very provocatively with men. 

    By the 1950s, movie actresses Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor helped bring back dark red lips. A 1951 survey revealed that two-thirds of teenage girls wore lipstick.

    In 1950 chemist Hazel Bishop formed a company, Hazel Bishop Inc., to promote her invention of long-lasting, non-smearing lipstick, which quickly gained acceptance. At the end of the 1950s, a cosmetic company named Gala introduced pale shimmery lipstick. Later Max Factor created a popular lipstick color called Strawberry Meringue. Lipstick manufacturers began creating lipsticks in lavender, pale pink, white, and peach. Since parents generally frowned on teen girls wearing lipstick, some teen girls began wearing pink and peach lipsticks, which became a trend. White or nearly white lipstick was popular in the 1960s. Rock groups such as Ronettes and the Shirelles popularize white lipstick. Girls would apply white lipstick over pink lipstick or place under-eye concealer on their lips. During that time, many lipsticks were either matte, sheer, or slightly shiny. In the 1960s, lipstick was associated with femininity. Women who did not wear lipstick were suspected of mental illness.

    In the 1970s, several cosmetic companies introduced lipsticks in more unusual colors such as iridescent light blue (Kanebo), frosted time green (Conga Lime by Revlon), and silver sparkled navy blue (Metallic Grandma by Biba). MAC cosmetics constitutes to release limited edition and highly collectible lipsticks in a wide range of colors and finishes, including unusual hues of violets, blues, and greens.

    Black lipstick became popular in the late 1970s and into the 1990s. In the 1950s, black lipstick had been worn by actresses starring in horror films. It became popular again due in part to punk and goth subcultures.

    In the mid-1980s, so-called mood lipstick, skin to mood rings, was sold to adults by mainstream cosmetic companies. This type of lipstick changes colors after it is applied, based on changes in skin's pH that supposedly reflect the wearer's mood. Previously these had been available as little girls' play makeup. They had another resurgence in the very early 21st century, offered by inexpensive as well as more exclusive cosmetic lines, and color-changing chemicals also appeared in lip gloss, such as Smashbox-O-Gloss, and blush, such as Stila Custom Color Blush.

    In the 1990s, lipstick colors became semi-matte. Shades of brown were very popular. These shades were inspired by several shows, such as "Friends". In the late 1990s and into the 21st century, pearl shades became very popular. Lipsticks were no longer matte or semi-matte but were shiny.

    In 2012, bright bold lip colors became trendy again with saturated colors such as hot pink, neon, and orange.

    In 2014, and early 2015, nude lipsticks became popular. These lipsticks follow the general trend where "less is more". Examples of celebrities promoting this trend are Paris Hilton and Gigi Gorgeous.

    In late 2015, and 2016 liquid lipstick, which applies like a gloss but dries matte, became popularized with brands such as Anastasia Beverly Hills, Sephora, Huda Beauty, Kylie Cosmetics, NYX Cosmetics. Its most common form comes in a tube, applied with an applicator wand. Liquid lipstick tends to have more staying power and is more pigmented than a traditional lipstick. However, it dries out more and cracks more readily over time.

    In early 2019, before the pandemic of covid-19, the trend of liquid lipstick was changed from the liquid matte lipstick to a semi-matte or glossy finish. However, the pandemic of covid-19 markedly reduced the popularity of lipsticks since people usually do not apply lipstick under facial marks.

    Lipstick also has many variations including liquid, lip balms, glosses, crayons, pencils, liners, palettes, and stains. Balms and glosses tend to be more translucent and not as dark or vibrant. Some individuals buy lip balms and glosses rather than lipstick, as they get a more hydrating feeling from these.

    Ingredients
    Lipstick contains wax, oils, antioxidants, and emollients. Wax provides the structure to the solid lipstick. Lipsticks may be made from several waxes such as beeswax, ozokerite, and candelilla wax. Because of its high melting point, carnauba wax is a key ingredient in terms of strengthening lipstick. Various oils and fats are used in lipsticks, such as olive oil, mineral oil, cocoa butter, lanolin, and petrolatum.

    Lipsticks get their colors from a variety of pigments and lake dyes including, but not limited to Bromo acid, D&C Red No.21, Calcium Lake such as D&C Red 7, and D&C Orange No.17. Pink lipsticks are made by mixing white titanium dioxide and red shades. Both organic and inorganic pigments are employed.

    Matte lipsticks contain more filling agents like silica but do not have many emollients. Creme lipsticks contain more waxes than oils. Sheer and long-lasting lipsticks contain more oil, while long-lasting lipstick also contains silicone oil, which seals the colors to the wearer's lips. Glossy lipstick contains more oil to give a shiny finish to the lips.

    Shimmery or frost lipstick may contain mica, silica, and synthetic pearl particles, such as bismuth oxychloride, to give them a glittery or shimmering shine.

    Lipstick is made from grinding and heating ingredients. Then heated waxes are added to the mix for texture. Oils and lanolin are added for specific formula requirements. Afterward, the hot liquid is poured into a metal mold. The mixture is then chilled. Once they have hardened, they are heated in a flame for half a second to create a shiny finish and to remove imperfections.

    References;
    1. Lipstick

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