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There are several strategies commonly employed to formulate sunscreens with broad-spectrum protection, preventing both short-term and long-term effects of UV radiation. Although it seems logical to combine various UV filters to achieve better UV protection, active ingredients (i.e., cosmetic ingredients) also play a significant role in optimizing the formulation for both efficacy and consumer acceptance. Additionally, developing and marketing new cosmetic ingredients is much easier than those UV filters, which also have to be approved by the FDA. Here is a summary of commonly used strategies;
Interesting Facts
Avobenzone is the only long-range chemical UVA filter (340-400 nm) widely available to sunscreen manufacturers in the US. However, the molecule is inherently unstable and by itself loses nearly 50% of its screening capacity after just 1 hour of UV exposure. Furthermore, the addition of other ingredients, even certain UVB filters to sunscreens, containing avobenzone accelerates the degradation of both compounds. This is why photo stabilizers are extremely important in formulations.
Formulation
The formulation of emulsions should follow the general formulation steps. Homogenous dispersion of the insoluble inorganic filters is very important for an effective and aesthetically appealing product. The formulation of gels should also follow the general steps, usually starting with hydrating the thickener(s). Sticks are formulated with the molding technique.
The manufacture of aerosol formulations must be performed in a flameproof area using special equipment since they are highly flammable and/or explosive. First, the product concentrate is formulated, which is later filled into the can with the propellants using a special technique of pressure filling. In this process, the product concentrate is usually filled into the can first, and then the valve is inserted and crimped into place. Finally, the liquefied propellant is forced into the can under pressure through the valve orifice after the valve is sealed. Air can be removed from the can using a vacuum or displacement with a small amount of propellant vapor. After the filling operation is complete, the valve is tested for proper function.
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