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How Peptides help in reducing wrinkles in Cosmetics?

What are Peptides?

Peptides in skincare products are chemical compounds composed of short chains or strings of amino acids. They have the ability to penetrate the upper layer of the skin and act as dispatchers capable of triggering specific functions, such as collagen support so that skin can be firmer, thicker, and more elastic. For this reason, they are of great interest to the cosmeceutical industry.

Peptides occur naturally in our skin they are also known as polypeptides. Peptides are amino acids that help to build up certain protein needed by the skin such as collagen, elastin, fiber and keratin. These skin proteins are naturally synthezised by our body and are responsible for maintaining the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Therefore they are used in various products. Collagen is made up of 3 polypeptide chains, therefore when peptide is added to cosmetic product it can help to stimulate collagen.

Peptides are able to block neurotransmitter signals, this could have a cosmetic effect and lead to more relaxed and smoother skin. Depending on the mechanism of action, there are three types of peptides that are used in cosmeceuticals
(1) Signal peptides,
(2) Carrier peptides, and
(3) Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides.

Peptides used in cosmeceuticals are as follows;

Peptide

In vitro effect

(Desired) in vivo effect

Signal peptides

Fibroblast activation in response to the degradation of collagen and elastin chains

Smoother, thicker, and firmer skin due to increased collagen production

Carrier peptides

Delivery of copper to the skin to activate enzymatic wound-healing pathways

Smoother, thicker, and firmer skin due to increased collagen production

Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides

Inhibition of the release of neurotransmitters

Reduction in facial wrinkles caused by a decrease in muscle activity

 

 

Why peptides are essential for your skin?

Everyone goes through the phase of aging and generally after 30’s we lose 1% of our remaining collagen per year. Our skin’s natural collagen level slows down over the time.

How Peptides work on your skin?

Your body sees these peptides as ‘signals’ that you need to heal, which tells your body to produce more collagen where you need it most,”. If your skin is aging prematurely, those peptides might signal your skin to boost its production of collagen and even hyaluronic acid, plumping up your skin and restoring a healthy skin barrier. When you introduce exogenous peptides onto the skin in the form of a moisturizer or serum, it tricks the skin into thinking there’s been an injury or wound, and it stimulates our collagen-boosting processes.”

When it comes to skin care, not all peptides are created equal. “While there are hundreds of peptides, there are specific peptides that are more efficacious for the skin than others,” For example, carrier peptides deliver trace minerals to the skin to boost collagen, while enzyme inhibitor peptides work to slow down the skin’s natural breakdown of collagen. Signal peptides send messages to different parts of the skin to promote collagen, elastin and other proteins; and neurotransmitter peptides, touted as “Botox-like,” block the release of chemicals that cause the muscle contraction of expression lines, thus smoothing wrinkles.

How to select the right product?

It is very important to check which ingredients are used in the formulation, stability of the ingredients and its ability to penetrate the skin barrier.

Instead of choosing a peptide-enriched cleanser, select products that are not easily washed off from the skin, like a moisturizer, eye cream or serum that has prolonged contact with your skin. Opt for products with copper peptides, which “help not only to generate collagen but also maintain the collagen you generate. Look for products that has niacinamide, vitamin C and, in addition to peptides. But don’t use niacinamide and vitamin C together!), antioxidants, and hyaluronic acids. Using a peptide with an alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) will actually make the peptides work less efficiently.

What are the benefits of peptides for your skin?

Peptides "stimulate your skin to make more collagen," where they can be used by the body which means regular use can lead to decrease fine lines and wrinkles. Incorporating peptides into your cosmetic products has many benefits for the skin.

Peptides enhance skin barrier (stratum corneum) by protecting it against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other harmful toxins. The uppermost layer that is stratum corneum can be damaged from over-exfoliation, exposure to cigarette smoke and other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build up a stronger barrier.

Antimicrobial peptides not only directly kill the pathogens but also help by balancing immune responses and interfering in wound healing, cell differentiation, reepithelization and their synergistic interplay with the skin microflora.

Peptides improves skin barrier, reduce wrinkles, produce elastin fibers which makes skin look firmer and tauter, reduce inflammation, repair damaged skin, and even out skin tone, kills bacteria that causes acne.

 

Reference - https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.12229

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5967208/

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