Two common ingredients in beauty and Skin care products are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). They’re both chemical exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin. Treat common issues like acne, dullness, uneven skin tone, and rough texture.
Both AHAs and BHAs are types of hydroxy acids, but they work differently and should be chosen based on your specific skin concerns. Understanding the difference between AHA and BHA is key to selecting the right product.
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid, a group of water-soluble chemical exfoliants found in skincare products like serums, cleansers, and creams. AHAs work on the skin's surface by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, which helps slough them off to reveal a brighter, smoother, and more radiant complexion, mainly made from fruits or milk. They delicately exfoliate the skin's surface, aiding in the removal of dead cells to provide fresh, smoother skin underneath.
AHAs are popular for brighter skin, uneven complexion, or fine lines. Researchers suggest that either ingredient also has the potential to make you more sensitive to the sun when you put it on your skin. They are effective on dry or sun-damaged skin and are commonly included in toners, peels, and exfoliating serums.
If the product contains Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Citric acid, Hydroxycaprylic acid, Hydroxycapric acid, then your Product has AHAs, and if it contains Salicylic acid (or related ingredients, like salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), Beta hydroxybutanoic acid, Tropic acid, Trethocanic acid, then it has BHAs.
Mechanism:
|
Benefit |
Description |
|
Exfoliation |
Gently removes dead skin cells without the harshness of physical scrubs. |
|
Brightening |
Improves skin texture, reduces dullness, and helps fade surface dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage. |
|
Anti-Aging |
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting the synthesis of collagen over time. |
|
Hydration |
Some AHAs (especially Lactic Acid) have humectant properties, helping the skin retain moisture. |
|
Better Absorption |
Removing the dead layer allows serums and moisturizers to penetrate and work more effectively. |
Commonly used AHAs in the cosmetic industry
|
Name |
Source |
Key Feature |
|
Glycolic Acid |
Sugar cane |
Has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the deepest and provide the strongest exfoliation. Best for anti-aging and sun damage. |
|
Lactic Acid |
Milk |
Has a slightly larger molecule and is gentler, making it ideal for sensitive or dry skin. It also has hydrating properties. |
|
Mandelic Acid |
Bitter almonds |
Has the largest molecule, penetrating the slowest and gentlest. Often recommended for sensitive, acne-prone skin and people with darker skin tones (due to less irritation risk). |
|
Citric Acid |
Citrus fruits |
Used for its exfoliating properties and its ability to help adjust the product's pH level. |
How to use AHA??
Begin by applying a low percentage AHA product once a week. Apply it after cleansing but before your moisturizer. Observe for a week how your skin reacts after using alpha hydroxy acid.
Avoid layering AHAs with strong retinoids or vitamin C at the same time. And don’t forget sunscreen in the morning, AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
What Are BHAS ??
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid. They are oil-soluble. This means they can go deeper into pores, making them ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. BHAs are considered a great option for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and even small breakouts. They are excellent for deep cleaning the skin and preventing clogged pores. BHAs are often used in bha cleanser, spot treatments, and toners designed for oily or combination skin. Here are some benefits:
1. Unclogs pores and prevents breakouts
2. Reduces oiliness and shine
3. Calms redness and inflammation
4. Improves skin texture over time
5. Helps with rough patches and bumpy skin
Salicylic acid, a powerful BHA sourced from willow bark, helps clear pores, calm irritation, and treat acne effectively.
Other varieties, such as tropic acid or trethocanic acid, exist but are rarely used in Cosmetics.
Start with a low BHA concentration and apply it once or twice a week. Apply your BHA exfoliant after cleansing. Products containing salicylic acid for skin may also be used as spot treatments on problem areas.
It is important to monitor skin response and avoid combining BHAs with strong active ingredients unless advised by a skincare professional.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AHA AND BHA
|
Feature |
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) |
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) |
|
Solubility |
Water soluble |
Oil soluble |
|
Works On |
Skin’s outer layer |
Deep inside the pores |
|
Best For |
Dry, dull, or aging skin |
Oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin |
|
Common Type |
Glycolic acid |
Salicylic acid |
|
Main Benefits |
Smoother skin, brighter tone, even texture |
Clears pores, reduces acne, and controls oil |
Finding the Right Balance: Combining AHAs and BHAs
The decision to use AHAs and BHAs together is entirely skin-dependent.
Some individuals successfully combine these acids to address multiple concerns simultaneously, such as tackling both dryness and breakouts. However, using them in excess can potentially lead to skin irritation or sensitivity.
Fortunately, many modern skincare products simplify this by offering balanced formulations that contain both acids. You can find these in products like an AHA and BHA serum or a specialized AHA BHA exfoliator.
A good starting point is to integrate these combination products into your routine once or twice a week.
Essential Guidelines for Using Exfoliating Acids (AHA and BHA)
Understanding the benefits of AHAs and BHAs is only half the battle; proper application is crucial to ensure they enhance, rather than harm, your skin. To maximize the positive effects, avoid these common mistakes: